How We Formulate At Roccoco
We Start With the Condition - Not the Ingredients
At Roccoco, formulation begins with a single objective: to restore normal function in skin that is no longer self-regulating.
We do not begin with actives. We begin with an in-depth understanding of the skin condition itself. It is not enough to know how it looks on the surface. We look at what is driving it at a biological level. Every chronic or reactive condition involves multiple systems that are out of balance. Our responsibility is to identify each of them and understand how they interact.
We study the condition from the inside out. We ask: How does it behave? What mechanisms keep it active? What barriers prevent recovery? By mapping these contributing systems, we uncover the true roadblocks to healing.
This process is what guides every decision that follows. It ensures that the actives we choose are not simply treating symptoms, but are influencing the actual pathways involved. It is how we build formulas that do not just provide temporary relief but help skin return to a state of normal function and long-term health.
Selecting Ingredients by Pathway Function
Once the contributing systems are understood, we begin identifying actives that influence those specific pathways.
We do not start with a budget and force a formula to fit. Our process is the reverse: we formulate to fix the problem first and only look at the cost later.
Every ingredient we select is based on:
- Mechanism of action
- Clinical relevance to the condition
- Synergy with other actives targeting adjacent pathways
- Compatibility with inflamed or reactive skin
- Role in supporting, not overriding the skin’s natural repair processes
We then construct the formula around these mechanisms, layering actives to target multiple systems simultaneously: inflammation, microbial triggers, barrier breakdown, pigment formation, and immune reactivity.
Every Ingredient Must Pass Our 5-Question Screening Process
If an ingredient fails any of these, it’s excluded - regardless of how popular or natural it may be.
Is it acne-safe?
Is it acne-safe?If a formula is designed to treat acne, we rigorously evaluate each ingredient for comedogenic potential using both clinical data and firsthand formulation testing. If an ingredient has any likelihood of clogging pores, promoting congestion, or triggering breakout pathways - it's immediately ruled out.
Is it sensitising or allergenic?
Is it sensitising or allergenic?Natural doesn’t always mean gentle - many botanical ingredients are common allergens. We rigorously screen for known irritants, especially essential oils and aggressive surfactants. If an ingredient has the potential to inflame or disrupt immune balance, it's immediately excluded.
Will it impair the skin barrier?
Will it impair the skin barrier?The integrity of the skin barrier is non-negotiable. We only formulate with lipids, emulsifiers, and actives that strengthen, not strip - prioritising barrier-repairing ingredients like ceramides and lamellar structures that mimic the skin’s own design.
Will it increase pigment risk?
Will it increase pigment risk?Hyperpigmentation is often worsened by inflammation, barrier damage, or photoreactivity. We assess whether the ingredient could sensitise skin to UV, trigger PIH (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation), or interfere with melanocyte regulation.
Does it serve a defined functional purpose?
Does it serve a defined functional purpose?We only include ingredients that add value - whether that’s driving results, supporting skin health, or enhancing the formula’s usability. If it doesn’t serve a clear and intentional role, it doesn’t stay.
Why Roccoco Works When Others Don’t
If you’ve used products that helped a little but didn’t fully resolve your skin issue, or made things worse, this is likely why: they only addressed part of the problem.
Most formulations focus on one or two visible symptoms. They might reduce bacteria, exfoliate, or hydrate. But they rarely target all contributing pathways involved in a complex skin condition, which means the underlying dysfunction remains.
At Roccoco, we formulate differently. We start by mapping the full biological picture of the condition. Then we select ingredients that address every active pathway, not just the surface presentation. That means we’re treating the cause, not just the symptom.
This is why our formulas are often successful for people who’ve tried everything else. It’s not because we use more actives or trend-driven ingredients. It’s because we build products that the skin can actually respond to, because the full network of dysfunction is being addressed at once.
It’s a system-wide solution, not a surface-level correction.
When the skin receives the right inputs, in the right structure, without anything to confuse or inflame it, healing can finally happen.