Inflammation Isn’t the Enemy—Misunderstanding It Is

What Microneedling Can Teach Us About Interpreting Cosmetic Science Properly

Nothing grinds my gears more than misinformation being sprouted as science, especially when it comes from those who think they understand cosmetic chemistry after skimming a single abstract or latching onto a buzzword like “inflammatory.”

It’s not just misleading. It’s reckless.

And the beauty industry is overflowing with it. I see it often: passionate, well-meaning estheticians repeating half-truths from misread studies. An ingredient gets labeled “pro-inflammatory,” and that’s it—it’s villainized, blacklisted, and misunderstood. No one pauses to ask:

• In what context is it inflammatory?

• At what concentration?

• Is it part of a repair mechanism or a degradation pathway?

• Are we looking at a transient reaction, or something chronic?

• Is the inflammation causing damage, or triggering renewal?

These missing questions are why ingredients like low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (LMW-HA), retinoids, vitamin C, and niacinamide at higher doses get unfairly lumped into the “bad for the barrier” category. Yet these very compounds are often the ones initiating transformation, using the same physiological signals the body naturally relies on to repair, rebuild, and rejuvenate.

And nowhere is this misunderstanding more obvious than in the case of microneedling.

Microneedling: A Masterclass in Controlled Inflammation

Let’s call it what it is: microneedling works because it causes inflammation.

It creates thousands of micro-injuries in the skin—tiny, controlled disruptions that stimulate the body’s natural wound healing response. This is what kickstarts the release of cytokines, the recruitment of growth factors, and the production of fresh collagen and elastin. It’s not damaging. It’s intentional.

And yet you don’t hear estheticians slandering microneedling as “pro-inflammatory.” Why not?

Because we understand the healing process. Because inflammation in this context is what makes microneedling so effective.

The Phases of Wound Healing (And Why Inflammation Belongs There)

To understand why inflammation is not inherently bad, let’s look at what actually happens post-microneedling:

1. Inflammation Phase (0–48 hours)

• Cytokines like IL-1, IL-6, and TNF-α are released

• These are the skin’s first responders—activating immune cells, cleaning up debris, and signalling for repair

• This is short-lived, controlled inflammation, not chronic or systemic

2. Proliferation Phase (48 hours–7 days)

• Fibroblasts get to work

• Collagen and elastin production ramps up

• VEGF promotes new capillary formation

• EGF stimulates keratinocyte migration and epidermal regeneration

3. Remodelling Phase (1 week–3+ months)

• Weak Type III collagen is replaced by strong Type I

• Skin becomes smoother, firmer, and more resilient

• The extracellular matrix is reorganised and strengthened

This process isn’t harmful. It’s intelligent. It’s regenerative. And inflammation is the spark that sets it in motion.

Why We Don’t Demonise Inflammation in Microneedling

Here’s the kicker: the very cytokines that get villainised in cosmetic discussions are the same ones that help your skin repair.

• TNF-α? It signals fibroblasts to lay down new collagen.

• IL-6? Critical for keratinocyte proliferation.

• IL-1? It’s the skin’s built-in alarm system.

Would you call a fire alarm “dangerous” just because it makes noise? Of course not. Its job is to alert you so action can be taken. These cytokines function in the same way, initiating a vital response that saves the skin, not harms it.

A Simple Analogy: Strength Training for Skin

Microneedling is to skin what resistance training is to muscle. You intentionally create small, controlled stress to trigger a healing response. That stress induces inflammation. But without that stress, there’s no signal for growth.

The result? Stronger tissue, improved tone, and increased resilience.

It’s the same for your face as it is for your biceps.

What Estheticians Need to Know (And Teach Their Clients)

When a client asks, “Isn’t inflammation bad for the skin?”....don’t default to vague reassurance. Use this opportunity to educate:

“Not all inflammation is harmful. In treatments like microneedling, inflammation is precisely what triggers your body’s natural repair system. It’s controlled, intelligent, and temporary—and it’s the reason your skin becomes firmer, smoother, and clearer afterward.”

And if you’re tempted to toss out a product because a study said it was “pro-inflammatory,” stop and ask the deeper questions:

• Is this a regenerative or degenerative response?

• Was it in vitro or in vivo?

• Is this applicable to cosmetic concentrations and delivery systems?

Because here’s the truth: Real professionals don’t just quote science....they interpret it.

The Bottom Line

Inflammation isn’t the enemy. Misinformation is.

Microneedling proves that purposeful, well-regulated inflammation can be a force for good, igniting healing, renewal, and long-term barrier repair. If we can understand this in the context of needling, we must extend that same understanding to ingredients and formulations.

As estheticians and skin professionals, we owe it to our clients, and our industry to stop reacting to words out of context and start embracing the bigger picture of how the skin truly works.

When we stop fearing inflammation and start respecting its purpose, we stop holding back results.